I just finished reconnecting everything after having the motor out of my car for a rebuild. Everything powers up and works, but the starter wont turn (or make any sound). I can hear the relay clicking. I went through with wiring diagram on WIS and checked everything a few times. Tried it in both P and N and nothing. Any ideas?
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Engine won't turn over
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Bad mileage and check engine 01' 9-5
I am having a problem.... getting around 16-17mpg and then if I reset I can get a bit more. The other thing though is that my check engine light is one. The check engine light will go off sometimes and I will think it was just a fluke but then it reapers, any ideas?
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Anyone had a bad oil cap?
Had Smog check today, pass the emission test but still fail the smog. the guy said my oil cap does not conceal fine. and tell me change a new one. Does anyone has the same problem before? it does leak some oil.:(
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quick question about oil light
So I was driving down the highway after putting in a new bpc valve and bypass valve, I was driving in third wot, around 5k rpm my oil light came on for a second and went off. I turned the car off and pulled on the side of the highway, checked my oil level which wads good, and looked under the car to see if it was leaking oil, but it was dry. I started the car and babied it home, I noticed on stop signs and red lights my idle was not steady. When I got home I looked more under the hood and found that one of my vaccum lines had popped off.(I did the rerouting of the vaccum lines mod that I have seen on the forum). The vaccum line that goes from the tb is supposed to be blocked, I had a screw init with a small hose clamp, the whole hose with the screw got blown off, so that would account for the bad idle, but can it somehow be the causeof the oil light to come on(I highly doubt it but I'm hoping it can)
Saab has 140k, oil change was done 1k miles ago along with the pan drop and oil pickup cleaned.
Its a 2001 9-3 se
Saab has 140k, oil change was done 1k miles ago along with the pan drop and oil pickup cleaned.
Its a 2001 9-3 se
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no start when hot???
this has only happened a few time but is kinda making me worry a bit. when i take short trips and the car is hot and it is hot out it sometimes doesnt want to start. when it happens it only has the lights on the dash it doesnt try to turn over and there is no sound from the starter. i havent ran in to this too much on any of the cars i own or have worked on. it doesnt matter if the car is in park or neutral. the only codes i have is an o2 sensor not reading and a misfire in cylinder #4. im not sure if it is an ignition switch or something else. its a 2001 9-5 3.0l v6. any help would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
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New Key Fob?
I ordered one for $12.50 off of Amazonia and I'm wondering if I have to do something special to get it to work? Like sacrifice the second female or something like that:cheesy:.
I removed the key from the current working one. Inserted into the new fob and then into the ignition of the car...nothing happened?
I tired a search too...but to no avail?
TIY!
I removed the key from the current working one. Inserted into the new fob and then into the ignition of the car...nothing happened?
I tired a search too...but to no avail?
TIY!
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Where are the timing marks?
There are a few posts mentioning the inability to find timing marks, but nothing too specific. I have an '87 900 turbo and I'm trying to check the timing. I found the little square opening on the front of the plastic flywheel cover, so I pointed the timing light down into it. I can see the inner teeth of the pressure plate and the circular surface outside of it (it looks like there's some writing on that, but AFAIK there are no marks on this surface.
I can't look straight into the square opening because the intake pipe is in the way, I can only look down into it. I'm guessing the marks are higher up on the wheel and I can't see them, because I can't get a lower angle to peer into the window.
I messed with the timing anyways. I rotated the distributor a bit clockwise and my RPM's would surge for a bit until I went to far and then the engine would run rough, it sounded like it was missing or something. I left the distributor a little farther clockwise than it was before, because it gave me a more consistent idle.
Anyone got pointers for how to really get a timing reading. It looks like I'll have to pull a lot of stuff off of the engine to get the whole plastic cover off.
I can't look straight into the square opening because the intake pipe is in the way, I can only look down into it. I'm guessing the marks are higher up on the wheel and I can't see them, because I can't get a lower angle to peer into the window.
I messed with the timing anyways. I rotated the distributor a bit clockwise and my RPM's would surge for a bit until I went to far and then the engine would run rough, it sounded like it was missing or something. I left the distributor a little farther clockwise than it was before, because it gave me a more consistent idle.
Anyone got pointers for how to really get a timing reading. It looks like I'll have to pull a lot of stuff off of the engine to get the whole plastic cover off.
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Wanted: TINY/Digital Boost gauge, AERO seats gray
Name: Scott Gagnebin
Location - additional details: Natick, MA
Means of contact: PM me here, email@ the.classic.scott@gmail.com
Price: Reasonable for the part
Description: Looking for the worlds SMALLEST boost gauge without a digital display, or any with a 8 segment display(digital?) that can be removed from the housing to mount discretely and unobtrusively in the car.
Also searching for a set of aero front seats in gray or a color that would match to the gray interior i have, anywhere within a 80(Any farther we meet in middle) mile radius of 01760. heated seats must work, air bags must not be deployed, ventilated if possible not all that picky. MUST BE IN GREAT/GOOD/ACCEPTABLE CONDITION WITH NO RIPS OR STAINS AND MINIMAL WEAR.
Location - additional details: Natick, MA
Means of contact: PM me here, email@ the.classic.scott@gmail.com
Price: Reasonable for the part
Description: Looking for the worlds SMALLEST boost gauge without a digital display, or any with a 8 segment display(digital?) that can be removed from the housing to mount discretely and unobtrusively in the car.
Also searching for a set of aero front seats in gray or a color that would match to the gray interior i have, anywhere within a 80(Any farther we meet in middle) mile radius of 01760. heated seats must work, air bags must not be deployed, ventilated if possible not all that picky. MUST BE IN GREAT/GOOD/ACCEPTABLE CONDITION WITH NO RIPS OR STAINS AND MINIMAL WEAR.
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need some answers please
Ok guys dumb question. ...... for the saab arc,and areo what's the engine code? You know nlf, lsj. I know cobalt people use our engine cause is cheaper, now I just found out that I need a head gasket so I want to beef up my motor and I'm wondering if I can use any of the rods, pistons skirts or even better the block on the zzperformance.com site.any one have any look or use anything that I have mention?
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saab 9-3 1.8t hirsch tuned
New here so thought i would make a small introduction.
My name is Gert Van der Stappen,and live in the netherlands
My previous cars
First car a 323F BG:
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More info: http://www.superchargedmiata.net/en/.../mazda-323f-bg
Second car a Mazda MX5 1.8SV-T with Compressor / supercharger :
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More info: http://www.superchargedmiata.net/en/...zda-mx-5-nb-fl
third car a Audi S3 1.8T Quattro:
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More info: http://simplystance.com/en/project/audi-s3-18-turbo
Current car, Saab 9-3 SS 1.8t vector hirsch tuned (195BHP / 310NM)
had the car a month or two, and have changed the following already:
- battery
- alternator
- Throttle body
- Different color (custom mix red plastidip)
- Removed dents from roof and hood (someone had wolked over it...
- C arbon wrap roof
- Aero front, rear and trunk spoiler
- Aero sideskirts
- Hirsch exhaust from front to back (still has to be mounted, cam from a 280bhp 9-3)
planning to do:
- Tune to 260bhp
- change intercooler
- lowering (bought used hirsch springs)
two pictures:
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more info and pictures http://simplystance.com/en/project/s...sport-sedan-ss
My name is Gert Van der Stappen,and live in the netherlands
My previous cars
First car a 323F BG:
More info: http://www.superchargedmiata.net/en/.../mazda-323f-bg
Second car a Mazda MX5 1.8SV-T with Compressor / supercharger :
More info: http://www.superchargedmiata.net/en/...zda-mx-5-nb-fl
third car a Audi S3 1.8T Quattro:
More info: http://simplystance.com/en/project/audi-s3-18-turbo
Current car, Saab 9-3 SS 1.8t vector hirsch tuned (195BHP / 310NM)
had the car a month or two, and have changed the following already:
- battery
- alternator
- Throttle body
- Different color (custom mix red plastidip)
- Removed dents from roof and hood (someone had wolked over it...
- C arbon wrap roof
- Aero front, rear and trunk spoiler
- Aero sideskirts
- Hirsch exhaust from front to back (still has to be mounted, cam from a 280bhp 9-3)
planning to do:
- Tune to 260bhp
- change intercooler
- lowering (bought used hirsch springs)
two pictures:
more info and pictures http://simplystance.com/en/project/s...sport-sedan-ss
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SAAB 95 NG Infotainment unit after replacement not powering up
Some month ago my local SAAB service centre performed Infotainment firmware update via USB .
At the end of update unit died.
It could because it was USA update and my car is UK version , but it could also be that during update TIS computer was connected and was not supposed to so that somehow interrupted update and killed unit.
End result , completely dead unit.
Anyway I got replacement unit, and upon installation Infotainment would not come on line.
It was clear that unit is powered , TIS computer could communicate with Infotainment, unit was also performing software update ( could see it on TIS computer) ,but screen was dark grey, in the same way when you switch on T V or Monitor but without video input. You can tell TV is working but no video signal is coming
Conclusion was it is faulty unit, so we got another one.
Upon installation , same problem again unit powered but screen was grey as if no video input.
BTW in both cases no buttons under the unit or on steering wheel made any difference.
So either both replacement units are faulty, technicians are not doing something correctly or something else could also be wrong (ECU?)
Has anyone come across this kind of problem?
Any advice would be welcomed.
At the end of update unit died.
It could because it was USA update and my car is UK version , but it could also be that during update TIS computer was connected and was not supposed to so that somehow interrupted update and killed unit.
End result , completely dead unit.
Anyway I got replacement unit, and upon installation Infotainment would not come on line.
It was clear that unit is powered , TIS computer could communicate with Infotainment, unit was also performing software update ( could see it on TIS computer) ,but screen was dark grey, in the same way when you switch on T V or Monitor but without video input. You can tell TV is working but no video signal is coming
Conclusion was it is faulty unit, so we got another one.
Upon installation , same problem again unit powered but screen was grey as if no video input.
BTW in both cases no buttons under the unit or on steering wheel made any difference.
So either both replacement units are faulty, technicians are not doing something correctly or something else could also be wrong (ECU?)
Has anyone come across this kind of problem?
Any advice would be welcomed.
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Master Cyl - Replace, rebuild, ignore? Help me decide!
My brake reservoir has a lot of blackness accumulated on the sides, on the level sensor, and in the fluid. Not something you can feel, but you can see and wipe it. A tech here suggested in another discussion that the seals in the cylinder deteriorate and cause this. I haven't seen many reports here of others with this problem. It seems to function fine. It's a lot darker than when you just have old brown fluid.
I am going to be doing the brakes, and probably rebuilding the wheel cylinders since they have 100K on them, so I figure now's the time to correct it so as not to send gunk back down to the wheels. My options are:
- Rebuilt Master from the usual suppliers, price around $120.
- Rebuild it, kits available from Europe for around $20 to $30 shipped. No idea how hard a rebuild it is.
- Get a used unit from the junk yard, miles unpredictable, probably $20.
- Just flush it with the brake job fluid flush, and see if the problem returns before bothering with it.
What would you chose?
I am going to be doing the brakes, and probably rebuilding the wheel cylinders since they have 100K on them, so I figure now's the time to correct it so as not to send gunk back down to the wheels. My options are:
- Rebuilt Master from the usual suppliers, price around $120.
- Rebuild it, kits available from Europe for around $20 to $30 shipped. No idea how hard a rebuild it is.
- Get a used unit from the junk yard, miles unpredictable, probably $20.
- Just flush it with the brake job fluid flush, and see if the problem returns before bothering with it.
What would you chose?
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For Sale: Mp Performance intercooler NG900/og9-3
Name: Stephen.
Location: California.
Means of contact: preferred email: 93viggen2.3@gmail.com
Price: $250.00 shipped in the USA.
Description: I have a used MP performance intercooler for sale. I recently blew an end tank on it, used it as an excuse to upgrade.
I welded the end tank back together and pressure tested it to 30psi. I will polish it up and clean it out before I ship it :).
Pictures:
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Location: California.
Means of contact: preferred email: 93viggen2.3@gmail.com
Price: $250.00 shipped in the USA.
Description: I have a used MP performance intercooler for sale. I recently blew an end tank on it, used it as an excuse to upgrade.
I welded the end tank back together and pressure tested it to 30psi. I will polish it up and clean it out before I ship it :).
Pictures:
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Electrical gremlin
So a couple days ago i went to start my 99 9-5se only to find the battery completely flat. i jumped it and i got ten feet before it died. Then i brought the battery to autozone where they found it to be completely dead and replaced it under warranty, the they tested my alternator and it was making 1 V less than it should be, so something is steadily killing my alternator. Im replacing the alternator currently, but still do not have a cause for the drainage in the first place. i read some forums and the common culprits are in the ignition switch and the head unit/ amp, any light shed on my situation is well appreciated.
also i have a stripped interior so no accessory lights are remaining
also i have a stripped interior so no accessory lights are remaining
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9-5 Aero Wagon Strut Replacement
Hi there!
I am the proud owner of a 2003 9-5 Aero Wagon that is on need of new struts. Looking at the ones that are on it, Sachs 53 36 946 I believe that they are the OE Saab installed sport struts. My questions is this, do I have to replace them with Sport Suspension specific shocks or will the MUCH cheaper KYB or Monroe that say w/o sport suspension in the rockauto.com description fit and work fine? This is my wife's daily driver and I want it be comfortable for her but at this point I think anything would be better than the originals with 125k+ miles on them. Any info you guys can provide is greatly appreciated!
Jim
I am the proud owner of a 2003 9-5 Aero Wagon that is on need of new struts. Looking at the ones that are on it, Sachs 53 36 946 I believe that they are the OE Saab installed sport struts. My questions is this, do I have to replace them with Sport Suspension specific shocks or will the MUCH cheaper KYB or Monroe that say w/o sport suspension in the rockauto.com description fit and work fine? This is my wife's daily driver and I want it be comfortable for her but at this point I think anything would be better than the originals with 125k+ miles on them. Any info you guys can provide is greatly appreciated!
Jim
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voltage fluctuation at idle rpm with new alternator and AC on
The alternator in my 2002 9-5 died, so I replaced by a refurbished one. This is the hardest job imaginable on a SAAB. Very difficult. I do not want to go there again. All was OK in winter, but now it's summer; when I turn on the AC, if I stop at a traffic light, the lights and displays start pulsating. Voltage goes down, the ECM compensates by revving up the engine a bit. When voltage is OK, ECM lets go and voltage goes down again. It pulsates may be 10 times per minute. Sometimes the ECM shuts down my AC and the only way to get it back is to stop the engine, then start. Not good in heavy traffic. I end up driving without AC. I checked the voltage coming from the alternator and it is OK, both in idle and when I rev it up a bit manually--within specks. Battery is new and checks OK. AC cools fine, may be a bit weak but ok.
What can I do that is not changing the alternator again? may be up the iddle speed? any other thing may have gone wrong since last December?
What can I do that is not changing the alternator again? may be up the iddle speed? any other thing may have gone wrong since last December?
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How can I clear up my headlight?
My headlight looks foggy and crappy. Has anyone had success with these lens cleaning kits? Is it possible to just buy replacement lens for the 03+ SS ?
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how many CCS are the green top injectors?
people always ask and i never know how many CCS are the green top injectors?
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mass air flow sensor
I own a 1988 Saab 900 SIS. I recently changed over my automatic to a 5 speed. I would appreciate someones knowledge and experience if you could tell me if the mass air flow sensor is the same between automatic and standard shift? Could someone explain to me the procedure for adjusting the mass air flow sensor? It has the Bosch 0 280 212 005 sensor. I have switched out the PCM and injectors that I purchased from SWEDISH DYNAMICS, INC.
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Saab 99-02 seat frame question install
Are the frames of all seats, manual, powered, ect the same discounting the motors and such. I want to possibly swap the skins from a powered to a manual and want to make sure the under foams, etc will work. I know the bottoms will switch over fine but it is the upper back frame I'm worried about. My electrical skills suck so wiring up the powered seats in a manual car is out of the question. Thinking of swapping some vig seats onto my manual seats frame
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