03 Arc with an MPS stage 1 tune. Mike and I went for a ride before ny tune and he expressed concern that I wasnt getting full boost, which I had no idea about since this is the first and only SS Ive been in. My turbo needle never went all the way to the red, which I didnt know it was supposed to. So, got the tune, new plugs gapped correctly, cleaned my maf, the sensor on the manifold to the right of the tb, the sensor in the pipe before the ic, and I checked my bypass valve, which has no rips or tears. I swapped my bpv solenoid and the wastegate solenoid and now I have more power, but obviously not how its supposed to be. I can feel a "switch" at high rpms under wot and I have more boost and at lower revs, 3/4 throttle has more power than wot. If I swap them back, what will be the easiest way to determine which one is bad? Bypass one then the other and see how it runs? I have no cel either.
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Which is bad, wastegate solenoid or bpv solenoid?
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My T5.5'd 900 has hiccups..
Eversince my 900 got T5.5'd I have weird hickups while cruising. The car idles and starts fine, goes like hell on full throttle (AFR in the 12.5 range) but when cruising it has hickups. I can "see" them on the AFR meter as well, it steadily goes between 14.0 and 14.6 and when a hiccup occurs it goes to 15+.
It gets even weirder, they only seem to occur around the 2500rpm mark.
The annoying part is that the 2500rpm zone is used pretty much everywhere while driving.. :evil:
Does this sound familiar to someone?
Things I've swapped or replaced
-New DI cassette (Original Saab)
-New Lambda probe
-Changed injectors
It gets even weirder, they only seem to occur around the 2500rpm mark.
The annoying part is that the 2500rpm zone is used pretty much everywhere while driving.. :evil:
Does this sound familiar to someone?
Things I've swapped or replaced
-New DI cassette (Original Saab)
-New Lambda probe
-Changed injectors
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2001 saab 9-3 se drain coolant help
is there any easy way to drain the coolant?
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Help, car shut down on interstate, turbo fire, smoke, no start
basically I have a 2003 Saab 95 Aero, I was driving making a long distance drive from Florida to Indiana, while driving in Georgia my car automatically shut down on the interstate the battery light came on, oil light, and the check engine light came on I pulled over the side and there was smoke coming from the engine so I got out and lifted the hood in there was a fire around the turbo I spray little water to put the fire out and smoke was coming from everywhere including the oil tub there's a little bit of oil drip underneath the turbo and the car shows about a quart low for which I checked it before I left. Every time I try to start the car now it sounds like it wants to crank over then it starts to jerk the car but never starts. NEED HELP ASAP I'M IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE!
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P0033 and P0422, an in depth look
I'm sorry to rehash this old info but I'm sure someone would like a reference one page w/o digging all over the internet.
I got my 2.0t earlier this year and I immediately tuned it. I started getting solenoid issues and had to piece together the fix from forums and fb groups. I just wanted to post a short write up for anyone experiencing this issue.
Issue - CEL thrown with either code of p0033 or p0244.
p0033 - Turbo charger bypass valve control circuit
This is the solenoid at the T8 p/n 55354158
p0244 - Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction
This is the solenoid at the wastegate p/n 12787706
**THESE ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE**
In my particular issue, I had lost boost and went into limp mode just about every day. I would unplug the battery and clear the code and a minute later the code would kick back on. I tore both solenoids out of the car and thoroughly cleaned them with electronics cleaner (high flash) to no avail. I purchased the first solenoid ( wastegate ) and it seemed to fix the issue for a couple of days. I then replaced the second solenoid ( T8 ) and I was still having issues. I then replaced all my vacuum lines with double braided fuel hose. I was sure this would fix my boost issues. Come to find out I had a small tear in my Bypass Valve (not uncommon) so I replaced that with a Forge unit. These three items seem to be the first items to fail after a tune (not to mention coils) so I just wanted someone to have a write up of what's going on when they see these P codes. Lastly, DO NOT, I repeat, do not adjust your Wastegate actuation arm under any circumstance. On a normal tune, the T8 will adjust for the irregularities of the adjustment but on a tuned ECU, I've found that in 5th gear at WOT the wastegate did not like this adjustment and kept kicking me out into limp mode. After returning the arm back to stock, it has solved the issue. You are not making any more power by doing this. Any adaptations made by the T8 will nullify any adjustments made. It ended up causing me more problems after my tune that I couldn't trace for the longest time. I hope this helps anyone that is having a similar issue. I'm not a big contributor but this is all I have so far.
Cheers.
I got my 2.0t earlier this year and I immediately tuned it. I started getting solenoid issues and had to piece together the fix from forums and fb groups. I just wanted to post a short write up for anyone experiencing this issue.
Issue - CEL thrown with either code of p0033 or p0244.
p0033 - Turbo charger bypass valve control circuit
This is the solenoid at the T8 p/n 55354158
p0244 - Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction
This is the solenoid at the wastegate p/n 12787706
**THESE ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE**
In my particular issue, I had lost boost and went into limp mode just about every day. I would unplug the battery and clear the code and a minute later the code would kick back on. I tore both solenoids out of the car and thoroughly cleaned them with electronics cleaner (high flash) to no avail. I purchased the first solenoid ( wastegate ) and it seemed to fix the issue for a couple of days. I then replaced the second solenoid ( T8 ) and I was still having issues. I then replaced all my vacuum lines with double braided fuel hose. I was sure this would fix my boost issues. Come to find out I had a small tear in my Bypass Valve (not uncommon) so I replaced that with a Forge unit. These three items seem to be the first items to fail after a tune (not to mention coils) so I just wanted someone to have a write up of what's going on when they see these P codes. Lastly, DO NOT, I repeat, do not adjust your Wastegate actuation arm under any circumstance. On a normal tune, the T8 will adjust for the irregularities of the adjustment but on a tuned ECU, I've found that in 5th gear at WOT the wastegate did not like this adjustment and kept kicking me out into limp mode. After returning the arm back to stock, it has solved the issue. You are not making any more power by doing this. Any adaptations made by the T8 will nullify any adjustments made. It ended up causing me more problems after my tune that I couldn't trace for the longest time. I hope this helps anyone that is having a similar issue. I'm not a big contributor but this is all I have so far.
Cheers.
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99 9-3 man trans compatibility
What year manual trans are compatible with a 99 9-3? The yard i am at says it's a 99 only part.
Thanks.
Tom
Thanks.
Tom
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9-7X Gas problems
When ever I start to fill up my gas tank, it takes less then $20 for the pump to act like its full and it's not. I gotta go very slow to keep on fueling. What might problem be??? Also my gas gauge is not working
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New England meets?
Hey everybody, I haven't posted much but have gotten
A lot of useful information on the forum. I have seen a
Lot of Saabs around the boston area and have always
Wanted to meet up with a bunch of fellow saab owners
For a nice drive/spot to park. Has anyone heard anything
About events in New England? Anyone interested in starting one?
Thanks in advance guys, btw here's my baby.
A lot of useful information on the forum. I have seen a
Lot of Saabs around the boston area and have always
Wanted to meet up with a bunch of fellow saab owners
For a nice drive/spot to park. Has anyone heard anything
About events in New England? Anyone interested in starting one?
Thanks in advance guys, btw here's my baby.
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Possible P0455 Evap Code Fix - Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
The dreaded P0455 Large Evap Leak Code isn't exactly uncommon, and my car started throwing it about a week and a half ago. I assumed it was because I didn't get my locking fuel ring/seal back on tight enough after replacing my level sensor causing the leak. Even gently pressing on the tank from underneath, I could hear air escaping.
So, I dropped the tank again today and found that my fuel tank pressure sensor had somehow worked its way out of its slot in the tank due to a FUBAR'ed grommet.
(Sorry in advance for crappy cell phone images)
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The part number is Delco 09377680, which is actually a GM carryover, so finding a new one isn't a huge issue, however, the only people who had it on-hand today was a GM dealership and I paid like $95 for it (I was in a time crunch). Order it ahead of time online, and you'll pay less than half that.
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Oddly enough, both sensors came with hooks, but there's nothing on the tank for them to snap into. They're held on solely by the grommet. I threw some electrical tape down on mine for safe measure.
Anyway, this could be the culprit if you're getting a P0455 Code and a pretty strong gas smell from the tank when the car's running.
So, I dropped the tank again today and found that my fuel tank pressure sensor had somehow worked its way out of its slot in the tank due to a FUBAR'ed grommet.
(Sorry in advance for crappy cell phone images)
The part number is Delco 09377680, which is actually a GM carryover, so finding a new one isn't a huge issue, however, the only people who had it on-hand today was a GM dealership and I paid like $95 for it (I was in a time crunch). Order it ahead of time online, and you'll pay less than half that.
Oddly enough, both sensors came with hooks, but there's nothing on the tank for them to snap into. They're held on solely by the grommet. I threw some electrical tape down on mine for safe measure.
Anyway, this could be the culprit if you're getting a P0455 Code and a pretty strong gas smell from the tank when the car's running.
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Fuel tank installation
Does anyone have some tips for installing the fuel tank? I replaced the fuel pump after dropping the tank and the problem I see when putting the tank back in the car is attaching the hose to the body of the car. There is almst no room for my hand when coming up from the bottom...is there a way to attach it from the top through the fuel filler compartment?
TIA
Dan
TIA
Dan
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No Vacuum reading on throttle body ports
While adjusting my timing I noticed that my vac advance was still plugged in. I unplugged it and saw that it made no difference. The advance itself works, but I hooked up a gauge to the ports coming off of the TB and noticed that none of the 3 had any vacuum. If I revved the engine the gauge would move a little (it would dance up to 1 or 2 "Hg), but there was no consistent vacuum.
It looks like the PO may have messed with these ports (I see some sort of glue around the base), I have no idea why. Doesn't the dizzy act as a vacuum advance/pressure retard so that it retards the timing when you have boost?
Is there anywhere else I can find to plug the tubes running into the TB to? I think it would be bad to plug them into the post throttle ports. Is there any line I could safely splice these into?
It looks like the PO may have messed with these ports (I see some sort of glue around the base), I have no idea why. Doesn't the dizzy act as a vacuum advance/pressure retard so that it retards the timing when you have boost?
Is there anywhere else I can find to plug the tubes running into the TB to? I think it would be bad to plug them into the post throttle ports. Is there any line I could safely splice these into?
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2008 9-5 Aero - very poor throttle response
I hope someone can shed some light on this as I have no codes to go on. After about 5 to 10 minutes of the engine getting to operating temp, there is very poor throttle response. From a standing start it feels like I'm starting out on 3rd gear. It boosts but only to about 90 of boost range (as per gauge). When the car is still warming up I get great throttle response and it will boost all the way to the red zone. It's not the DI as I have swapped it out with a known good one when I experience the issue. I've checked all the vacuum lines and made sure that they are good by swapping them out with 4mm silicon hoses.
Any thoughts? If definitely seems to be temp sensitive. This happens on a warm day (mid 90s) or on a relatively cool day (mid to high 70s).
Thanks for any/all suggestions
Any thoughts? If definitely seems to be temp sensitive. This happens on a warm day (mid 90s) or on a relatively cool day (mid to high 70s).
Thanks for any/all suggestions
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NG900 literally spraying oil..
Hello again, Ive made a few threads on here before about my Saab's issues but I decided to make another one because I've tried almost everything to fix this. I Saab sprays oil from the serpentine belt from under the crankshaft pulley I believe. I can see a mist when the engine is on and it leaves a mark on the ground as it sits. When it is off though it obviously just drips from what was already sprayed onto the engine bay and wheel well area. I have been driving with this issue for a long time and I need to do something about it now. I replaced the oil pan gasket, the oil pump o-ring and the crankshaft seal. What else do I need to check or fix? Theres nothing more that I can think of. If theres anyone out there that has this issue and has fixed it please help me! As I said, I've been driving the car ever since I've owned it with this issue and the only problem is that I need to add oil when its low and I have to keep an eye on it. Please help! This is such an annoying issue to deal with.
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Urgent: Stuck in Riverside California
Car died in Riverside on Highway. Thousands to get towed home. Car gets some fuel but dies.
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Wanted: strut/shock upgrade for 2004 9-5
Before I order new a new Koni set for 2004 9-5 Aero (was linear, swapped out aero suspension) - thought I'd see if someone has an upgrade path sitting on shelf collecting dust. Just curious...
(BTW: anything that will make my 9-5 handle better is fair game here)...
Name: Rick Wallace
Location: Texas
(BTW: anything that will make my 9-5 handle better is fair game here)...
Name: Rick Wallace
Location: Texas
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Rear Seat Release
My passenger side rear seat back won't release. (The smaller of the two rear seats.) The lever pulls, and the 'red plastic warning tab' comes up, but no release... The other side works.
What is the trick to get access / see if there is something stuck?
Thanks in advance!
What is the trick to get access / see if there is something stuck?
Thanks in advance!
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Warning lights on and no speedo
Over the last couple of weeks, I have intermittently been having the TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT, WARNING TRIANGLE, PARKING BRAKE and ABS lights all come on at the same time.
Sometimes it happens when cruising at a constant speed, they light up and go out a couple seconds later. Today they come on as soon as I started the car and took about 3 or 4 minutes of driving for them to go out. I also noticed today for the first time the speedometer stayed at zero and then it shot up to the speed I was going and the lights went out.
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Sometimes it happens when cruising at a constant speed, they light up and go out a couple seconds later. Today they come on as soon as I started the car and took about 3 or 4 minutes of driving for them to go out. I also noticed today for the first time the speedometer stayed at zero and then it shot up to the speed I was going and the lights went out.
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B205 engine rebuild advice
I've searched and searched but can't find my answer
I'm rebuilding a b205 engine to make stronger and more reliable as I would like to get to the 300-350bhp mark and not worry every time I put my foot down which is often.
I'm going to be replacing all valves, tappets & valve springs and forging the bottom end.
Question 1 : what gains does putting the t5 camshafts in?
Question 2 : what is the best turbo to use ?
Question 3 : balance shaft delete (please explain)
Question 4 : are the original injectors ok to use or should I upgrade if so to what ?
I'm rebuilding a b205 engine to make stronger and more reliable as I would like to get to the 300-350bhp mark and not worry every time I put my foot down which is often.
I'm going to be replacing all valves, tappets & valve springs and forging the bottom end.
Question 1 : what gains does putting the t5 camshafts in?
Question 2 : what is the best turbo to use ?
Question 3 : balance shaft delete (please explain)
Question 4 : are the original injectors ok to use or should I upgrade if so to what ?
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Cel-p1264
On a short 75 mile trip this weekend I felt a "jerk" while running at about 80mph with the cruise control on. CEL on display and pulled code P1264. With ACC on and stopped at a light, the engine RPM's drop and she wants to stall. If I turn the ACC off, it will stay running. TB was in LHM so I reset it and cleared the code. On the way back two days later, same thing.
Is this a replace the TB code only, or is there something else that could cause this? I checked the charge air pipe, intercooler hoses and all vac lines have been replaced. TB is also spotless.... 105,211 miles on car.
Is this a replace the TB code only, or is there something else that could cause this? I checked the charge air pipe, intercooler hoses and all vac lines have been replaced. TB is also spotless.... 105,211 miles on car.
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I'm into staying on a low budget!
Our 2003 9-5 is a rust free example in the rare Graphite Green Pearl colour. I've been making it preform a lot better over that last year that we have owned it.
Recently the Cat decided it would gum up and rob all of our power. This meant it was now officially time for a downpipe! However, I'm not too interested in spending several hundred dollars on one so you must improvise. Thus, this was created!
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Call it haggard, but it was dirt cheap, and works great!
We move the o2 sensor behind the second cat and it now passes emissions with a breeze.
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The turbo spools up mighty quickly and then we could increase to power to 260 with T7Suite.
Happy times for our Saab!
Recently the Cat decided it would gum up and rob all of our power. This meant it was now officially time for a downpipe! However, I'm not too interested in spending several hundred dollars on one so you must improvise. Thus, this was created!
Call it haggard, but it was dirt cheap, and works great!
We move the o2 sensor behind the second cat and it now passes emissions with a breeze.
The turbo spools up mighty quickly and then we could increase to power to 260 with T7Suite.
Happy times for our Saab!
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