Can anyone recommend a bike rack that mounts to the trunk? I'm not looking for a roof or a hitch mount. My old Rhode Gear trunk mount rack is now useless due to broken straps and disintegrated plastic. I'm looking for one that has the straps top and sides with support at the bumper area.
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Bike Rack for 2006 9-5 Sportcombi ?
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What do the number mean that show up when you hold auto and off
I held down the auto and off button for my climate control and on the left side of the screen a 1 popped up and on the right the number 22 showed up. Does anyone know what that is or means?
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9-3 2011 Anybody got the noise when playing music via AUX?
Hi, everybody
I just bought a Bluetooth transmitter via AUX port. When I use it to play music, and when the volume is high enough, I could hear the noise coming from the speaker when the music volume is low, or in between two songs. Anybody has the same issue? Is it because of the car, or the cable, or my phone? I am using an iPhone 6s plus.
I just bought a Bluetooth transmitter via AUX port. When I use it to play music, and when the volume is high enough, I could hear the noise coming from the speaker when the music volume is low, or in between two songs. Anybody has the same issue? Is it because of the car, or the cable, or my phone? I am using an iPhone 6s plus.
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Tensioner stripped.
A couple weeks ago I bought a used 2000 9-3, dirt cheap. It had been sitting down the street in neighbors driveway for months. Put a note on it and he sold it to me. He said it leaked oil, but for the price and parts, what the heck. I pulled the tensioner which was a bear, 11mm. Tried to put it back in and after a few turns it locked up. I swear, this past month has been a joke in regards to me stripping the crap out of everything. Now, I really have no idea what to do about this, do I give up and junk it, or is there a way to chase the threads somehow. Any help would be great.
thx
thx
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Saab 9-5 Aero MPS Stage 1 mReq & mAir problem
Hello all,
I'm hoping someone can chime in with some direction. I purchased a stage 1 tune from Mike @ MPS on Wednesday and the car runs great (no hiccups or mis-fires) but I am not hitting the target values for mReq. To give some history, my 5-speed 2000 Saab 9-5 Aero Wagon was pushing 15psi stock (I installed a boost gauge this weekend). I was told stock boost should be 12-13psi? I don't believe the previous owner would have messed with the wastegate but I could be wrong. Anyways, I got my tune and the car didn't feel much faster, still hitting 15psi. Mike hasn't been responding much but told me mRq should be about 1260, mine is requesting about 1160 and my mAir is about 1050. He also said I should be seeing 17-18psi. Since the tune I have done the following with no negative or positive change:
1. Swapped DIC with spare I had
2. Re-gapped my 5k mile old NGK BCPR7ES plugs from .90mm to .80mm (per Mike's recommendations)
3. Fixed small vacuum leak from line going from check valve into R line on BPC
4. Bolt mod
5. Replaced BPC with spare
6. Replace MAF with spare
7. Replaced BPV with spare
8. Reset ECU
9. Silicone vacuum lines are 5k miles old
I don't have any vacuum leaks as the car holds 21inHg at idle and holds psi at WOT. Does anybody have any ideas where else to look? I know the parts I replaced were with lower mileage used parts (90k miles), should I look into replacing any of them with new? I also have a spare wastegate actuator that I might look into installing tomorrow as well as brand new plugs. Maybe a wastegate helper spring?
Do I have two issues here? mReq not hitting Mike's target value and mAir not hitting within 50 of mReq?
Any input would be appreciated.
Brett
I'm hoping someone can chime in with some direction. I purchased a stage 1 tune from Mike @ MPS on Wednesday and the car runs great (no hiccups or mis-fires) but I am not hitting the target values for mReq. To give some history, my 5-speed 2000 Saab 9-5 Aero Wagon was pushing 15psi stock (I installed a boost gauge this weekend). I was told stock boost should be 12-13psi? I don't believe the previous owner would have messed with the wastegate but I could be wrong. Anyways, I got my tune and the car didn't feel much faster, still hitting 15psi. Mike hasn't been responding much but told me mRq should be about 1260, mine is requesting about 1160 and my mAir is about 1050. He also said I should be seeing 17-18psi. Since the tune I have done the following with no negative or positive change:
1. Swapped DIC with spare I had
2. Re-gapped my 5k mile old NGK BCPR7ES plugs from .90mm to .80mm (per Mike's recommendations)
3. Fixed small vacuum leak from line going from check valve into R line on BPC
4. Bolt mod
5. Replaced BPC with spare
6. Replace MAF with spare
7. Replaced BPV with spare
8. Reset ECU
9. Silicone vacuum lines are 5k miles old
I don't have any vacuum leaks as the car holds 21inHg at idle and holds psi at WOT. Does anybody have any ideas where else to look? I know the parts I replaced were with lower mileage used parts (90k miles), should I look into replacing any of them with new? I also have a spare wastegate actuator that I might look into installing tomorrow as well as brand new plugs. Maybe a wastegate helper spring?
Do I have two issues here? mReq not hitting Mike's target value and mAir not hitting within 50 of mReq?
Any input would be appreciated.
Brett
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Saab 9-5 Aero MPS Stage 1 mReq & mAir problem!
Hello all,
I'm hoping someone can chime in with some direction. I purchased a stage 1 tune from Mike @ MPS on Wednesday and the car runs great (no hiccups or mis-fires) but I am not hitting the target values for mReq. To give some history, my 5-speed 2000 Saab 9-5 Aero Wagon was pushing 15psi stock (I installed a boost gauge this weekend). I was told stock boost should be 12-13psi? I don't believe the previous owner would have messed with the wastegate but I could be wrong. Anyways, I got my tune and the car didn't feel much faster, still hitting 15psi. Mike hasn't been responding much but told me mReq should be about 1260, mine is requesting about 1160 and my mAir is about 1050. He also said I should be seeing 17-18psi. The car has always ran full synthetic oil and 93 octane fuel. Since the tune I have done the following with no negative or positive change:
1. Swapped DIC with spare I had
2. Re-gapped my 5k mile old NGK BCPR7ES plugs from .90mm to .80mm (per Mike's recommendations)
3. Fixed small vacuum leak from line going from check valve into R line on BPC
4. Bolt mod
5. Replaced BPC with spare
6. Replace MAF with spare
7. Replaced BPV with spare
8. Reset ECU
9. Silicone vacuum lines are 5k miles old
I don't have any vacuum leaks as the car holds 21inHg at idle and holds psi at WOT. Does anybody have any ideas where else to look? I know the parts I replaced were with lower mileage used parts (90k miles), should I look into replacing any of them with new? I also have a spare wastegate actuator that I might look into installing tomorrow as well as brand new plugs. Maybe a wastegate helper spring?
Do I have two issues here? mReq not hitting Mike's target value and mAir not hitting within 50 of mReq?
Any input would be appreciated.
Brett
I'm hoping someone can chime in with some direction. I purchased a stage 1 tune from Mike @ MPS on Wednesday and the car runs great (no hiccups or mis-fires) but I am not hitting the target values for mReq. To give some history, my 5-speed 2000 Saab 9-5 Aero Wagon was pushing 15psi stock (I installed a boost gauge this weekend). I was told stock boost should be 12-13psi? I don't believe the previous owner would have messed with the wastegate but I could be wrong. Anyways, I got my tune and the car didn't feel much faster, still hitting 15psi. Mike hasn't been responding much but told me mReq should be about 1260, mine is requesting about 1160 and my mAir is about 1050. He also said I should be seeing 17-18psi. The car has always ran full synthetic oil and 93 octane fuel. Since the tune I have done the following with no negative or positive change:
1. Swapped DIC with spare I had
2. Re-gapped my 5k mile old NGK BCPR7ES plugs from .90mm to .80mm (per Mike's recommendations)
3. Fixed small vacuum leak from line going from check valve into R line on BPC
4. Bolt mod
5. Replaced BPC with spare
6. Replace MAF with spare
7. Replaced BPV with spare
8. Reset ECU
9. Silicone vacuum lines are 5k miles old
I don't have any vacuum leaks as the car holds 21inHg at idle and holds psi at WOT. Does anybody have any ideas where else to look? I know the parts I replaced were with lower mileage used parts (90k miles), should I look into replacing any of them with new? I also have a spare wastegate actuator that I might look into installing tomorrow as well as brand new plugs. Maybe a wastegate helper spring?
Do I have two issues here? mReq not hitting Mike's target value and mAir not hitting within 50 of mReq?
Any input would be appreciated.
Brett
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For Sale: Billet Pro Shop short shifter for 6-speed manual - new
Name: Bob
Location - additional details: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
See below for details
Means of contact: pm me here
Price: $120 shipped
Transmission Type (auto/manual): 6-speed manual
Mileage (miles/kms): 0 miles, brand new part
Description: Billet Pro Shop short shifter for the 6-speed manual 9-3SS. Bought this for my 2008 6M, but ended up selling the car before getting around to installing it Matte black finish. Brand new, the shifter was taken out of the package but the hardware is still in the original bag as you can see in the photo. New is $159 plus shipping, sell for $120 shipped.
Pictures (embedded pics or links to external albums are mandatory):
Location - additional details: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
See below for details
Means of contact: pm me here
Price: $120 shipped
Transmission Type (auto/manual): 6-speed manual
Mileage (miles/kms): 0 miles, brand new part
Description: Billet Pro Shop short shifter for the 6-speed manual 9-3SS. Bought this for my 2008 6M, but ended up selling the car before getting around to installing it Matte black finish. Brand new, the shifter was taken out of the package but the hardware is still in the original bag as you can see in the photo. New is $159 plus shipping, sell for $120 shipped.
Pictures (embedded pics or links to external albums are mandatory):
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Rear wiper blade
Need help in finding rear wiper blade for 1999 wagon.
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Hello
Hi everyone,
Great forum always read posts just never joined until now.
I bought a 03 saab 9-3 2.0t in 2010. Moved to NYC in 2012 and gave it to Dad. Recently moved back to MA, dad gave me back saab and now I have a car thats been neglected for 4 years. I put 2500.00 into getting it back on its feet and drivable . Mechanic was honest and said it's better to get a newer car than to keep fixing. I really Appreciate his honesty (collinsville motorcars in CT in case anyone is wondering, really knowledgeable ) So Im going to do just that.
I love my saab and am looking to get a newer 9-3. Can't decide between between an aero or a v4 and I'm still trying to figure out if and what the is difference is between the 2011 base turbo4 and the 2.0T of the years prior. Any one have any opinions open to hearing it.
I never did any tuning on my 03 at the time of me getting it I was not knowledgeable enough in mods. When I get newer saab I'll Def experiment and change things.
Great forum always read posts just never joined until now.
I bought a 03 saab 9-3 2.0t in 2010. Moved to NYC in 2012 and gave it to Dad. Recently moved back to MA, dad gave me back saab and now I have a car thats been neglected for 4 years. I put 2500.00 into getting it back on its feet and drivable . Mechanic was honest and said it's better to get a newer car than to keep fixing. I really Appreciate his honesty (collinsville motorcars in CT in case anyone is wondering, really knowledgeable ) So Im going to do just that.
I love my saab and am looking to get a newer 9-3. Can't decide between between an aero or a v4 and I'm still trying to figure out if and what the is difference is between the 2011 base turbo4 and the 2.0T of the years prior. Any one have any opinions open to hearing it.
I never did any tuning on my 03 at the time of me getting it I was not knowledgeable enough in mods. When I get newer saab I'll Def experiment and change things.
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Questions about turbos: failures and model specific sizes
In the ongoing saga of my wife 2004 9-3 Arc, after 18 months of various maladies (generic P0300 CEL/SES, coils, fuel pump, Throttle Body (TB), etc.) and the car not running at all for about 3 of those months, it now runs, but still not right.
At start up it idles with what I can only describe as a borderline scary engine vibration that however isn't bad enough throw any codes, but just isn't healthy. Weird to say the least, which it would throw a code -- maybe a P030X -- so I would have at least have someplace to start.
Once warmed up (really warmed up like 10-15 miles), the car idles fine, but when not hot, it has this nasty rough idle, yet no codes.
Also, when I rev the engine when it is in the vibration state, the exhaust doesn't quite sound right -- leaky and a little metallic if that makes any sense.
Given everything else I have done, I suspect one of two things: the throttle body (TB) or the turbo.
So some questions:
Does the Arc engine (B207R?) have a different throttle body than a base 9-3 Saab (B207L)? I know that the TB for a 2004-2006 9-3 is different than a 2007-on because I have both an '04 and '07. I tried to get a TB from Rock Auto but it wouldn't fit (mechanical housing was too wide, hit the manifold temp sensor), so I went to my favorite recycler (thankfully they have like 20 9-3 carcasses) and got a used one off a 2006 I think, but not a base/linear and not an Arc. As the Arc is more powerful than the stock engine (I also have a 2007 9-3 base linear), could this be my issue? Visual comparison of the TB originally on the car and the recycled TB appear to be identical. Does the TB need to be trained/programmed?
Is there any way to physically check for a bad turbo other than by wiggling the shaft at the intake (haven't done that yet)?
If my turbo is bad, then similar to the TB, is the turbo on an Arc/B207R engine different from a base 9-3 B207L engine? My intent right now would be to go back to my recycler again for the turbo but again, he doesn't have any Arcs.
Thoughts would be appreciated.
At start up it idles with what I can only describe as a borderline scary engine vibration that however isn't bad enough throw any codes, but just isn't healthy. Weird to say the least, which it would throw a code -- maybe a P030X -- so I would have at least have someplace to start.
Once warmed up (really warmed up like 10-15 miles), the car idles fine, but when not hot, it has this nasty rough idle, yet no codes.
Also, when I rev the engine when it is in the vibration state, the exhaust doesn't quite sound right -- leaky and a little metallic if that makes any sense.
Given everything else I have done, I suspect one of two things: the throttle body (TB) or the turbo.
So some questions:
Does the Arc engine (B207R?) have a different throttle body than a base 9-3 Saab (B207L)? I know that the TB for a 2004-2006 9-3 is different than a 2007-on because I have both an '04 and '07. I tried to get a TB from Rock Auto but it wouldn't fit (mechanical housing was too wide, hit the manifold temp sensor), so I went to my favorite recycler (thankfully they have like 20 9-3 carcasses) and got a used one off a 2006 I think, but not a base/linear and not an Arc. As the Arc is more powerful than the stock engine (I also have a 2007 9-3 base linear), could this be my issue? Visual comparison of the TB originally on the car and the recycled TB appear to be identical. Does the TB need to be trained/programmed?
Is there any way to physically check for a bad turbo other than by wiggling the shaft at the intake (haven't done that yet)?
If my turbo is bad, then similar to the TB, is the turbo on an Arc/B207R engine different from a base 9-3 B207L engine? My intent right now would be to go back to my recycler again for the turbo but again, he doesn't have any Arcs.
Thoughts would be appreciated.
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Does your V6 engine cover rub the hood insulation?
The cover and some other pieces are rubbing the hood insulation. The car has a strange wobble when accelerating from a stop. Also vibrates on the highway when the texture isn't perfectly smooth. Motor mounts going bad? 2006 V6 Aero automatic with 115k miles.
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Greetings from Minnesota!
Hello everyone!
New to Saab in general and thus new to the forum as well.
I just purchased a beautiful 2008 9-3 Aero convertible. Now I'm just impatiently waiting for it to get shipped to me!
I have already learned so much here and am looking forward to becoming as much of an enthusiast as many of you! :D
New to Saab in general and thus new to the forum as well.
I just purchased a beautiful 2008 9-3 Aero convertible. Now I'm just impatiently waiting for it to get shipped to me!
I have already learned so much here and am looking forward to becoming as much of an enthusiast as many of you! :D
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9-5 OEM Chrome Exhaust Tip
I had a new exhaust installed two months ago and it didn't come with a chrome tip. My mechanic cut off the old one, to hopefully be welded to the new pipe.
I did the best I could cleaning and polishing the old, OEM 9-5 tip. It look just OK, but I really prefer the old OEM oval tip to aftermarket tips.
Any suggestions on a proper OEM tip replacement? At this point I think I prefer a weathered OEM tip to a shiny-new round tip.
I did the best I could cleaning and polishing the old, OEM 9-5 tip. It look just OK, but I really prefer the old OEM oval tip to aftermarket tips.
Any suggestions on a proper OEM tip replacement? At this point I think I prefer a weathered OEM tip to a shiny-new round tip.
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1999 vert TS pack spoiler question
Hi
I have a 1999 9-3 2lt turbo with something called a TS Pack. I am not sure if this was available in the US but it seems as though it is an Aero body kit including front air ram, lower body sills, rear lower bumper ram and a spoiler on the boot. Apart from that there is wood-grain dash and front door woodwork on the interior.
Yesterday I parked at a 90 degree parking space. When I backed out I pulled off the entire plastic undercarriage beneath the engine. complete nightmare , as it was still attached to the car but did not become a problem until I was on the freeway.
I have never liked this aero kit, especially the spoiler.
My question is, do I need to keep any of it? Especially the spoiler on the boot.?
Does any of this swoopy kit serve any purpose?., as I am now quite happy to pull all of it off
Greycloud
Thanks in advance
I have a 1999 9-3 2lt turbo with something called a TS Pack. I am not sure if this was available in the US but it seems as though it is an Aero body kit including front air ram, lower body sills, rear lower bumper ram and a spoiler on the boot. Apart from that there is wood-grain dash and front door woodwork on the interior.
Yesterday I parked at a 90 degree parking space. When I backed out I pulled off the entire plastic undercarriage beneath the engine. complete nightmare , as it was still attached to the car but did not become a problem until I was on the freeway.
I have never liked this aero kit, especially the spoiler.
My question is, do I need to keep any of it? Especially the spoiler on the boot.?
Does any of this swoopy kit serve any purpose?., as I am now quite happy to pull all of it off
Greycloud
Thanks in advance
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Turbo heat shield
The heat shield on the turbo (two clips and a bolt) seems to very little if anything, maybe for safety. Not running it on the Viggen, may take it off the my other car. Reason to keep it on?
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CIM and Steering Wheel Controls
I just replaced the CIM in my brother's 2007 vert after he lost the only key. I'm not very familiar with the ng9-3's so I basically just followed the directions to have the new CIM installed using a borrowed laptop/mongoose cable and left it at that once the replacement key worked. He now says that the steering wheel controls don't work and the SID isn't showing any info. Did I use the wrong year CIM or was there something I missed when programming it?
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Rubber molding that goes over pinch weld under windshield?
After Safelite replaced the windshield in my 2006, the molding over the pinch weld for the firewall disappeared. They don't have it. It obviously walked away totally on its own, totally not their fault. Right? And they didn't bend and scratch my dashboard or leave my carpet covered in debris either. :evil:
Anyway, is it available new? I can't figure out the part number or even its proper name.
Thanks!
Anyway, is it available new? I can't figure out the part number or even its proper name.
Thanks!
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LB Viggen Convertible Build
Well, I have been on the forums here and there over the past 4 years after building my vert in 2013/14 and after some extended periods of sitting I finally got it situated in a garage after we bought our house.
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However, it's been giving me trouble over the past couple of months as I got it out of its latest hibernation. First was the radiator blowing up at the inspection station, then the alternator going shortly after and now this:
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So I'm looking at least at a new head gasket, probably new rings and a hone depending on how bad it looks. It did seem to be seized when I tried to start it and it wouldn't crank. Before I tear into it any advice with sitting coolant in the cylinder?
However, it's been giving me trouble over the past couple of months as I got it out of its latest hibernation. First was the radiator blowing up at the inspection station, then the alternator going shortly after and now this:
So I'm looking at least at a new head gasket, probably new rings and a hone depending on how bad it looks. It did seem to be seized when I tried to start it and it wouldn't crank. Before I tear into it any advice with sitting coolant in the cylinder?
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For Sale: 2001 9-5 SE Partout - low mileage example, hit
2001 low mileage SE, hit from side. PM me with any needs, I'm currently pulling parts.
Hit badly on right side (thing of beauty to see it do so well) though very low mileage one-owner car.
Engine/trans, driver's side doors, bonnet, boot lid, optics, other bits and bobs, 3 rims, 4 good 215/55R-16s all available with the exception of much of the right side's panel parts. Not a common hue.
VIN available to prospective engine/trans buyer for mileage verification purposes.
Location: Darlington MD 21034
Means of contact: PM first
Price: As needed
Transmission Type (auto/manual): 4-speed auto
Mileage (miles/kms): 78K mi
Description: [above]
Hit badly on right side (thing of beauty to see it do so well) though very low mileage one-owner car.
Engine/trans, driver's side doors, bonnet, boot lid, optics, other bits and bobs, 3 rims, 4 good 215/55R-16s all available with the exception of much of the right side's panel parts. Not a common hue.
VIN available to prospective engine/trans buyer for mileage verification purposes.
Location: Darlington MD 21034
Means of contact: PM first
Price: As needed
Transmission Type (auto/manual): 4-speed auto
Mileage (miles/kms): 78K mi
Description: [above]
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Drivers Seat Lower Cushion refurb.
I have a pretty worn out left bolster on my drivers seat lower cushion.
It's a tan/beige 07' 9-3.
Have any of you had luck with leather restoration/paint kits?
I saw one on eBay, but there's a light beige and medium beige option.
Anybody know which one matches an 07 9-3?
It appears as though the seat was painted before I purchased it the car in 2011. The seat looked perfect when I bought it, but eventually the paint peeled away, revealing a repair beneath.
Ould appreciate some advice, and some pictures of a tan seat repair if any of you have gone this route?
It's a tan/beige 07' 9-3.
Have any of you had luck with leather restoration/paint kits?
I saw one on eBay, but there's a light beige and medium beige option.
Anybody know which one matches an 07 9-3?
It appears as though the seat was painted before I purchased it the car in 2011. The seat looked perfect when I bought it, but eventually the paint peeled away, revealing a repair beneath.
Ould appreciate some advice, and some pictures of a tan seat repair if any of you have gone this route?
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