Hi, I have a 20019-3 SE. I have had problems with the DIC unit ever since I got my car. Each time the check engine light comes on and I receive codes saying that there are cylinder misfires (codes such as P0304 and P1334). I have replaced the DIC 4 separate times. Each replacement unit has been a used unit, (a DIC from a junkyard) and each unit has worked (no CEL codes) for at least a few weeks, some units gave me no CEL codes for a few months. The DIC I have now had been fine for a few months, but I have been driving with the CEL light on for several months now. This current DIC has also done weird things such as make my car die when I start it, but then when I start it again it starts right up perfectly fine, and sometimes the CEL comes right on after and some times it does not. Every few times I drive my car if the CEL light is on, it will shut off, and the cycle of starting my car with it dying and the CEL light coming on continues. I have a brand new battery and I know that my starter is fine. My question is if I buy a brand new aftermarket DIC unit from somewhere such as Ebay, I assume it will finally fix my problem but will I suffer in performance with my car? I am also trying to avoid having to pay around $400 for a brand new factory replacement DIC if the aftermarket will do just fine with no loss of engine performance, gas mileage, etc. As well as the possibility of spending that $400 and my problem not getting fixed. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Aftermarket DIC Unit
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Replace Only Lower Crank Bearings?
I few months ago, I bought a 2001 Aero sedan that ran fine and looks immaculate, but a shop had told the previous owner not to push it too hard because there was metal in the oil. After taking off the head, pan, and timing cover, I discovered that the balance shafts were seized and the balance chain had worn off all of the balance shaft sprockets. I'm assuming that happened because of low oil pressure, which is probably what also trashed the lower halves of the crankshaft bearings. On the few I've taken off, the babbitt layer is completely gone, and the copper layer is mostly gone, and the rest can be flaked off by hand. Shockingly the rod bearings look fine, and the crankshaft looks okay. I'm getting a little sick of this car, and I don't have the time or patience right now to pull the engine and transmission. Would it be the most horrible thing in the world to just replace the lower crankshaft bearings and get the car running? I test drove it before buying it, and it sounded fine. There was no rod knock, no oil pressure light, and no valve ticking. I'm not really sure what to do with it, but I paid $1100 for the car and have bought nearly $1500 worth of parts for it, so I've paid about all I'm willing to pay to get it running. I did block off the balance chain tensioner oil feed with the Taliaferro plate, so that's at least fixed to my satisfaction for now.
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Shutting off TPMS on 08 9-3
Switched to a brand new set of BBS RK2 wheels on my 2008 Aero Vert, that were found in a storage container with brand new 17 year old tires, ditched the tires, the wheel will not accept TPMS sensors, so I used my Tech2 to remove the TPMS module, no more warning.
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Limp mode help
I have a 2003 vector. 2.0T
I have replaced my boost control valves and my car is spitting out code p0033
I believe my car is in limp home mode.
I have been watching videos of the T7 reset. However when i look at the throttle body in the videos it doesn't look the same. I know the video is of a 9-5 but if the throttle body is the same then watching a 9-5 shouldn't matter.
Please help me get out of limp mode.
I have replaced my boost control valves and my car is spitting out code p0033
I believe my car is in limp home mode.
I have been watching videos of the T7 reset. However when i look at the throttle body in the videos it doesn't look the same. I know the video is of a 9-5 but if the throttle body is the same then watching a 9-5 shouldn't matter.
Please help me get out of limp mode.
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Crankshaft Bearing Cap #5 Removal. How?
Is there a trick to getting the bearing cap for crankshaft bearing #5 (the one closest to the flywheel) out? I got it unbolted and loose, but when it starts to come down, it gets hung up on the slotted wheel for the crankshaft position sensor. That wheel doesn't seem to have any give in it, so I don't know how to get the bearing cap the rest of the way out. The bearings have looked progressively worse from #1 (surprisingly good) to #4 (shedding the copper layer pretty badly), so I imagine that #5 won't look good at all.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Anyone want a couple of 9-3 fuel pump assemblies?
I have a couple of 04-11 9-3 fuel pump assemblies that are in great shape -- except for bad pumps. All the connectors are good as is all the plumbing.
They've been around my garage for almost 6 months now after I replaced them with new ones, and before I throw them away I wanted to see if anyone wants them to rebuild.
I've rebuilt a similar fuel pump assembly in my '96 900 SE CV, and it has been holding up for 3 years now.
A new 9-3 fuel pump assembly is $200+, a new pump is only something like $60.
Probably cost $20 to ship both UPS.
I'll leave this for a week or two, then into the trash they go.
They've been around my garage for almost 6 months now after I replaced them with new ones, and before I throw them away I wanted to see if anyone wants them to rebuild.
I've rebuilt a similar fuel pump assembly in my '96 900 SE CV, and it has been holding up for 3 years now.
A new 9-3 fuel pump assembly is $200+, a new pump is only something like $60.
Probably cost $20 to ship both UPS.
I'll leave this for a week or two, then into the trash they go.
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Air conditioning not working
The AC on my '06 9-3 isn't working. The blower fan is working, but just blowing hot air. Now and then, I'll get cool air, but most often just hot. I checked to make sure that there is a belt on the compressor (there is) and that when the air is turned on that the clutch is turning (it's not.)
So I have a few questions: Is there a relay that could cause this? I haven't checked fuses yet, and I will in the morning. You may wonder why I didn't do that before writing, and I guess it's because I'm expecting a different problem.
I'm having issues with the ECU and have yet to replace it. I'm wondering (and expecting) that the inconsistent behavior of the ECU (and consequent turbo operation) is also the source of the inconsistent AC. Does the ECU control the AC in any way? If so, I'll be even more motivated to replace the ECU.
Thanks!
So I have a few questions: Is there a relay that could cause this? I haven't checked fuses yet, and I will in the morning. You may wonder why I didn't do that before writing, and I guess it's because I'm expecting a different problem.
I'm having issues with the ECU and have yet to replace it. I'm wondering (and expecting) that the inconsistent behavior of the ECU (and consequent turbo operation) is also the source of the inconsistent AC. Does the ECU control the AC in any way? If so, I'll be even more motivated to replace the ECU.
Thanks!
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Professional Parts Sweden/ProParts Quality?
I bought a Ball Joint /Control Arm from eEuropart made by ProParts about 2 years ago and installed it. Today I got my safety test and it failed because of a bad ball joint/control arm. I don't know how long they usually last but my question is Should I buy proparts again because it cheaper and hope it lasts or buy another brand?
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electric seat tilt problem
I have a 93 vert with electric seats. The other day when I started out from a stop light headed uphill, the entire seat tilted backwards about 3 inches. This is not a seat back problem, but an entire seat problem. It seems the gears are stripped, or not fully engaged allowing it to tilt forward and back.
Does anyone know which motor controls that function so I can investigate closer, or replace? It's the function that is controlled by lifting up or down on the front of the seat adjusting switch.
Does anyone know which motor controls that function so I can investigate closer, or replace? It's the function that is controlled by lifting up or down on the front of the seat adjusting switch.
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Quick Question - Compressor Oil
'98 900SE 2.0T Convert.
I'm replacing the compressor, drier, expansion valve, and condenser; and flushing the hoses and evaporator (before I install the aforementioned parts).
Since I am flushing everything out, do I leave all of the 200mL of compressor oil in the compressor when putting it all together, or do I still need to subtract some oil? WIS says the system needs 200mL.
My mind brain says, "You've flushed everything out, so it will have zero oil. Do not subtract any."
Thanks. I'll have many more questions in the future as I try to fix this car.
B.
I'm replacing the compressor, drier, expansion valve, and condenser; and flushing the hoses and evaporator (before I install the aforementioned parts).
Since I am flushing everything out, do I leave all of the 200mL of compressor oil in the compressor when putting it all together, or do I still need to subtract some oil? WIS says the system needs 200mL.
My mind brain says, "You've flushed everything out, so it will have zero oil. Do not subtract any."
Thanks. I'll have many more questions in the future as I try to fix this car.
B.
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Greetings from Idaho!
I've been reading through the forums for a few years now, and finally decided to join. My name is Timothy, and SAAB has been calling my name since I was in high school.
In total I've owned 6 of these Swedish masterpieces. Most have been stock, while a few have been "tastefully" modified.
#1 RIP 1994 9000CSE
#2 RIP 1982 900 Turbo 3dr
#3 1980 900 Turbo 5dr
#4 RIP 1999 9-3 Base (B204 head/b235 block, 15t, side exit exhaust, TurboXS FMIC, and custom AEM intake)
#5 1983 900S 3dr (Custom headers, slammed down, TSW Turn 7's 17x7, mid exit exhaust)
#6 1991 900 Base 4dr (Straight pipe, intake, and some bright *** PIAA fogs)
I'm currently in the works of making my '91 into an autox/hillclimb car. Will eventually get boost, but my main focus is weight and suspension right now. I weigh 220lbs and want the car to weigh 2600-2700 with me in it by time I'm done.
Once the big things start happening I'll begin my build thread and try to keep it interesting.
Thanks for having me and I look forward to being in the forum!
In total I've owned 6 of these Swedish masterpieces. Most have been stock, while a few have been "tastefully" modified.
#1 RIP 1994 9000CSE
#2 RIP 1982 900 Turbo 3dr
#3 1980 900 Turbo 5dr
#4 RIP 1999 9-3 Base (B204 head/b235 block, 15t, side exit exhaust, TurboXS FMIC, and custom AEM intake)
#5 1983 900S 3dr (Custom headers, slammed down, TSW Turn 7's 17x7, mid exit exhaust)
#6 1991 900 Base 4dr (Straight pipe, intake, and some bright *** PIAA fogs)
I'm currently in the works of making my '91 into an autox/hillclimb car. Will eventually get boost, but my main focus is weight and suspension right now. I weigh 220lbs and want the car to weigh 2600-2700 with me in it by time I'm done.
Once the big things start happening I'll begin my build thread and try to keep it interesting.
Thanks for having me and I look forward to being in the forum!
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2007 Saab 9-3 Aero Convertible Automatic
Name: Stuart S.
Location - additional details: Ambler, Pa. (Philly Burbs')
Means of contact: 267-626-1136 or Stuarthandy1@gmail.com
Price: 6,000.
Transmission Type (auto/manual): Automatic
Mileage (miles/kms): 129,300
Description: Very clean, needs nothing, no dash lights are on, entire story is in CL ad. I can help with shipping or fly/drive. The car runs fantastic, I would not hesitate to drive anywhere...
Pictures (embedded pics or links to external albums are mandatory):
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/6150899308.html
Location - additional details: Ambler, Pa. (Philly Burbs')
Means of contact: 267-626-1136 or Stuarthandy1@gmail.com
Price: 6,000.
Transmission Type (auto/manual): Automatic
Mileage (miles/kms): 129,300
Description: Very clean, needs nothing, no dash lights are on, entire story is in CL ad. I can help with shipping or fly/drive. The car runs fantastic, I would not hesitate to drive anywhere...
Pictures (embedded pics or links to external albums are mandatory):
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/6150899308.html
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Don't know what this mod is called that I need to fix
I have a 03 9-3 Vector MT with stage 1 tune the owner before me replaced the pipe on the driver side that connect I think the exust to the engine front intake? It's a metal pipe with a rubber coupler that coupler has sensors on it.. a big hole riped in that coupler now the car dies like crazy I used some rubber glue on it and I can at least drive around but still dies when I slow down and have really hard time getting up hills I need to replace this part but have no clue what it's called can anyone help?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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"new" 07 aero in driveway... now what?
Picked up 2007 9-3 Aero yesterday, 71,535 miles on it... olive green (don't laugh too hard)... so what do we first in the realm of preemptive maintenance, if anything? The history of the car looks like it was parked for 5 years, then driven lighten the last 4 years. Runs, handles, & performs flawless (except for maybe the brakes). 1/4 of the front aero spoiler is gone, but I'm guessing thats easy to source new-repop.
Going to replace the 4 year old Primewell tires today, but any cautionary heads-ups from experienced owners would be appreciated.
We have two 9-5 Aeros and a 9-7x, and before that 30 years of SPG's and 99's, so no 9-3 history at all. Love the way it pulls the highway from 70mph+, might have to find another one to convert to a weekend track car.
Going to replace the 4 year old Primewell tires today, but any cautionary heads-ups from experienced owners would be appreciated.
We have two 9-5 Aeros and a 9-7x, and before that 30 years of SPG's and 99's, so no 9-3 history at all. Love the way it pulls the highway from 70mph+, might have to find another one to convert to a weekend track car.
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p0101 2.8t
Every couple of weeks or so my 2008 aero automatic 9-3 throws a p0101(tech 2 description: Mass Air Flowsensor, Performance Problem [Deviation from Calculated Mass Air]).
It also throws tcm codes p1895 and p1896 both "Engine Torque. No Data, Bus from ECM." and cuts off the esp and locks me into second gear until the code is removed. When I do a websearch I only find one person mentioning a code set like mine on someone else's thread to do with the tcm codes but that thread didn't have a problem with the MAF which I think is significant because if I unplug the MAF with the engine running I get the same tcm codes but p0102 instead. This has made me shy away from thinking its a power issue caused by the UEC or wiring. But there are so many different things that could cause a MAF error it makes me dizzy. The car has always has a rough idle sometimes it does that v6 thing where on winter gas the engine starts shacking violently until I restart it. But even in the summer its never a smooth idle as my 60s car with carbs or 80s cars with l-jet/motro.
I had a similar maf sounding code on my audi recently and it turned out to be a coil and not the maf as the code made it sound so I'm not exactly in a parts changing mood but my local pick n pull has a rear ended 2006 aero 2.8t so I have unusually good access to used parts.
I have so far just visually checked for intake leaks and loose clamps on intake hoses, cleaned connectors with electrical parts cleaner and checked and cleaned the ground strap beneath the battery. Next I plan to check the maf signal wire and power wire ohm readings maybe a boost leak test. I don't know if I should be looking towards the throttle body.
The battery was replaced 6 months ago its vents keep popping up.
Also I'm lucky enough to have a mongoose cable and tech2win working all smoothly with security access.
It also throws tcm codes p1895 and p1896 both "Engine Torque. No Data, Bus from ECM." and cuts off the esp and locks me into second gear until the code is removed. When I do a websearch I only find one person mentioning a code set like mine on someone else's thread to do with the tcm codes but that thread didn't have a problem with the MAF which I think is significant because if I unplug the MAF with the engine running I get the same tcm codes but p0102 instead. This has made me shy away from thinking its a power issue caused by the UEC or wiring. But there are so many different things that could cause a MAF error it makes me dizzy. The car has always has a rough idle sometimes it does that v6 thing where on winter gas the engine starts shacking violently until I restart it. But even in the summer its never a smooth idle as my 60s car with carbs or 80s cars with l-jet/motro.
I had a similar maf sounding code on my audi recently and it turned out to be a coil and not the maf as the code made it sound so I'm not exactly in a parts changing mood but my local pick n pull has a rear ended 2006 aero 2.8t so I have unusually good access to used parts.
I have so far just visually checked for intake leaks and loose clamps on intake hoses, cleaned connectors with electrical parts cleaner and checked and cleaned the ground strap beneath the battery. Next I plan to check the maf signal wire and power wire ohm readings maybe a boost leak test. I don't know if I should be looking towards the throttle body.
The battery was replaced 6 months ago its vents keep popping up.
Also I'm lucky enough to have a mongoose cable and tech2win working all smoothly with security access.
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08 9-3 radio
just picked up an 08 9-3... i know the radio is gm outta an impala. Can it be swapped out with one intended for an Impala? Im looking to install the radio a touch screen.
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Replacing AC Compressor
So my AC clutch bearing started the death rattle last December so I went out an bought a shorter belt and just bypassed the compressor completely. A few months ago I purchased a clutch bearing on eBay for cheap and went to install it and realized I could not get the snap ring off the pulley. I just cannot seem to find the part where you insert the tool because I can only work from under it and even with a mechanics mirror I could not find it. Now it is summer and I live in Florida and I NEED my AC back and the mechanic said there was not enough room to get a pulley puller in that area without removing the AC compressor and refused to try. He recommended I just replace the whole AC compressor so I looked on EBay and found this one:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/161841813094
Does anyone have any experience using this $130 compressor with clutch assembly already attached? Just looking for someone who can tell me how quality it is compared to OEM.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/161841813094
Does anyone have any experience using this $130 compressor with clutch assembly already attached? Just looking for someone who can tell me how quality it is compared to OEM.
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Heater full of water.
I have been getting water leaking onto the passenger side floor and trying to figure out the source. Today after a lot of rain I noticed a lot of water standing in the heater box. I'm assuming there is a drain that is clogged. Does anybody have a picture of where the drain is? Thanks.
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Help Needed!!
I need a little advice -
Saab B205R HoT Aero 2.0t T7
We've just done a full engine rebuild following a disastrous bottom end failure. New main and big end bearings, rings, re-honed cylinders, head skimmed and de-coked, ported and polished. upgraded to a 19T turbo.
The engine is all back together and in the car. we have spark and fuel, appears to have low or no oil pressure although there is new oil getting through to the filter but not up to the head
....It doesn't start, it fires just about, almost runs on the starter, coughs splutters but wont quite pick up and run properly
Things we've checked
Vacuum hoses correct on throttle body
changed the fuel in the tank
No Fault codes
Have Spark
Have Fuel
primed oil pump twice by packing with lucas assembly oil and vaseline
There was some slight pickup on the oil pump we used but nothing more than a little light scoring, certainly not enough to mean no oil pressure
Does anyone have any ideas? common things that need to be checked?
Saab B205R HoT Aero 2.0t T7
We've just done a full engine rebuild following a disastrous bottom end failure. New main and big end bearings, rings, re-honed cylinders, head skimmed and de-coked, ported and polished. upgraded to a 19T turbo.
The engine is all back together and in the car. we have spark and fuel, appears to have low or no oil pressure although there is new oil getting through to the filter but not up to the head
....It doesn't start, it fires just about, almost runs on the starter, coughs splutters but wont quite pick up and run properly
Things we've checked
Vacuum hoses correct on throttle body
changed the fuel in the tank
No Fault codes
Have Spark
Have Fuel
primed oil pump twice by packing with lucas assembly oil and vaseline
There was some slight pickup on the oil pump we used but nothing more than a little light scoring, certainly not enough to mean no oil pressure
Does anyone have any ideas? common things that need to be checked?
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Opinions needed between two 9-3 buys!!!
Hello all,
I have had two 9-5's and the latest was totaled in accident. I have a choice between two 9-3 and what opinions on each with regard to ease of working on etc.
A 2006 9-3 aero v6 Red with 113,000 and looks to have good interior and exterior asking $5,000 possibly get for $4,200
The other is
2003 9-3 Vector/Aero silver 2.0T with 123,000 and also has great interior and exterior asking $4,000 possibly get for $3,200-$3,500.
Which one for ease of repair and any other items to fix.
Thanks
Brad
I have had two 9-5's and the latest was totaled in accident. I have a choice between two 9-3 and what opinions on each with regard to ease of working on etc.
A 2006 9-3 aero v6 Red with 113,000 and looks to have good interior and exterior asking $5,000 possibly get for $4,200
The other is
2003 9-3 Vector/Aero silver 2.0T with 123,000 and also has great interior and exterior asking $4,000 possibly get for $3,200-$3,500.
Which one for ease of repair and any other items to fix.
Thanks
Brad
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