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drivers door electric window

July 6, 2014, 2:44 pm
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Hi all, i have a my97 vert with an inoperable drivers door window. I thought it was a switch problem at first so i took it apart and cleaned all the connections.
A friend let me try the switch on his vert and it worked perfectly,next i tried the motor by putting power directly to it and that also worked fine. I know i could be looking at a broken wire somewhere but car electrics aint my forte. I do have a small volt meter but my knowledge of how to use it is limited. Could the tsas ecu also be the cause of this problem and if so how would i know ?
Any help gratefully appreciated, thanks for reading
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Now that's my type of camper trailer !

July 6, 2014, 2:52 pm
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CD Changer installation for '99 9-3

July 6, 2014, 3:01 pm
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Hi all,

My 1999 9-3 SE doesn't come with a CD player, and only cassette. There is a CDC button on the radio unit though, like all Saabs this model and year I believe. I've gone out and bought a used but original CD changer from the same model year 9-3, but is it a plug and play? I looked in the trunk and couldn't find any wiring for a CD changer, so do I have to wire it myself? Much appreciated
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Rear Suspension not lifting 07 9-7X

July 6, 2014, 5:03 pm
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My rear air suspension on my 2007 Saab 9-7X 4.2 stayed stuck and it won't raise up. You can hear the pumps working but it won't lift at all stays real close to the ground. What could it be??
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Spyker assist are going to auction

July 6, 2014, 5:05 pm
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Just bought a 9-3 / Radio help needed

July 6, 2014, 5:12 pm
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I purchased an '06 Saab 9-3 for my daughter yesterday as a HS graduation gift.

Since then I've replaced a severely dilapidated serpentine belt, polished the headlights, repaired an oil leak, change the oil and filter, cleaned off the caked-on oil residue, repaired non-functioning passenger front window, rotated the tires, washed the car, and polished then waxed the hood.

Well, aparantly that was the easy stuff, as the radio isn't working (nor is the blinker audible) and from what I've read this will likely be a huge PITA to diagnose.

First off, I've the looped the fiber optic cable on AMP1. One cable was lit, but after connecting and making a loop, the radio still doesn't function. I've also pulled the specified fuses in the fuse box driver's side of the dash (LH Drive).

Anyway, with that being said, where do I go from here? The car has navigation if that maters.

I'm to pull out the radio in a few minutes to make sure the wiring hasn't come loose.
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enable fuel pump without starting engine

July 6, 2014, 5:39 pm
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1990 9000-How do I enable the fuel pump to pump out the gas left in my fuel tank? I added 2 gallons fresh gas and a can of Seafoam to help breakdown what ever is in there and need to pump that out.

I removed the fuel line connection that goes between the fuel pump regulator and the fuel rail and attached a long fuel line from the regulator to go to my 5 gallon gas can i am using as a catch can.
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Niagara Winery Tour 2014

July 6, 2014, 5:49 pm
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Shock absorber replacement '98 9000 CSE

July 6, 2014, 5:51 pm
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1998 Saab 9000 CSE 5spd. I have owned it for a year, the previous owner drove it for 12 years prior. As far as I can tell, I am driving on the original suspension. I did have a ball joint on one side and tie rod on the other replaced last year.

Over the last few months a HORRIBLE squeaking sound has developed coming from (what I thought was) the rear driver side door area. After many failed attempts to diagnose, my mechanic thinks it's a bushing of some sort from the rear suspension. Couple that with the fact the car 'drifts' a bit on the highway, is pretty rough over bad stretches of road (boston driving) and I am pretty sure it's time for an upgrade.

That being said, any recomemdations on the what shock/strut to use? I want a smooth, comfortable ride (43 mile commute to boston--mostly highway until I get to the crap metro boston streets). Not really interested in performance/racing oriented shocks. I'm all about the comfort, not the speed--within reason:)

Price is also a factor. I don't want to spend a fortune on a 16 year old car. This will be my daily driver for 2 more years, then probably become a 2nd vehicle.
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Adding an aero cluster (turbo gauge) to non-aero car

July 6, 2014, 6:18 pm
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I've investigated this a while ago but wound up nowhere.
My car is an "anniversary" auto model, which did not come with the factory turbo gauge.
I found an aero of the same model, plugged it in but the ABS and TCS control lights were on permanently as my car does not have TCS.

I got a part number for what should be an aero cluster without TCS, new was $1200 and no wreckers had them, or couldn't be bothered looking.

I am running a proper boost gauge as at 20-25psi it is essential, but I still really want the yellow-orange-red gauge to full the dash.

Any suggestions? I think min is a single plug, all is in km/h however the mph/kph display would be fine so long as the odometer can be swapped to km.
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Washington DC / Maryland shop?

July 7, 2014, 1:52 pm
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Hi,

Does anyone know a good place to get my shocks replaced in the Washington DC area, I live in Maryland. :o
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2000 Saab 9-5 2.3T - Cranks, does not start

July 7, 2014, 1:55 pm
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Hi,

So here is a quick summary what happened.

On my way home couple weeks ago the car died in a middle of intersection. After pushing the car to the side and trying to figure out what was wrong I ended up towing it home. Reading the forums and symptoms it kind of sounded like the fuel pump was shot. At times the car would not start when it was low on gas, but other than that I did not have any issues.

Back when I bought the car a year ago it gave me codes which indicated either DI Cassette or Spark plugs. However, I did not see these codes again. According to PO spark plugs were changed 20k miles ago or so and the DIC is the original one. The mileage on the car is now around 95k or so and when bought it was 80k or so. I had to change the Turbo this past winter. There is a small oil leak, but nothing major.

Does anyone have any recommendations as to what should I look for next or even better if anyone happens to be close to Grand Rapids, MI could come take a look at my car. I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but definitely not too handy.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Juha
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crankshaft position sensor removal

July 7, 2014, 2:14 pm
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Does anyone know exactly how to get the right angle to remove the sensor? It's so far back and down under there it seems like it would be impossible to remove from the top of the engine bay without removing the whole radiator first!

Anyone have some experience with this?
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Feels like needs a tune, upper rpms hwy speeds

July 7, 2014, 2:44 pm
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Let's say you over take a car at hwy speeds, WOT in 4th feels like the fuel trims aren't correct. Like it's compensating back and fourth.

Owning PLENTY of turbo cars, I know the powerband is not linear. But this isn't what I'm questioning.

Does anyone else experience this? Car has ran beautifully with no codes. In my subies, what I describe feels like the fuel maps are tuned wrong with flat spots.

I haven't completely reset the ecu to reset the AFR learning, so I'm hoping for that, but would like feedback from everyone.
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Engine Failure?

July 7, 2014, 3:25 pm
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Please, daughter's 2003 9-3 convertible just 'died' yesterday.
Cruising on highway ~65 suddenly losing speed, no acceleration with pedal, engine oil light comes on pulls to side of road. Placed in park - had a 'loud bang' & some smoke out of exhaust. (???)
Towed to closest repair shop who reports today: "turns over, 'tries to start' but will not & has 'significant "rattling" at bottom of engine' - recommends I take to SAAB dealer/repair shop" - doesn't want to get stuck with it in case "we decide to junk it or something."
Sounds terrible to me - especially with the SAAB

What insights/valuable recommendations might you have on likely causes - best course of action, evaluation process, etc., OR what prior posts can you point me to that would be most helpful??

Thank you for your kind consideration!
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Engine Failure?

July 7, 2014, 4:04 pm
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Attempting to delete inadvertent repost. Sorry!
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Duck !!!

July 7, 2014, 4:06 pm
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How to simulate a sub 35˚F cold start?

July 7, 2014, 4:07 pm
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I'm looking for a way to simulate a sub 35˚F cold start. I want to try to do a cold compression test as our 2008 2.0T 9-3 nears the end of its power train warranty. I will have to direct a shop in Oregon to actually do the test. So I have a few ideas:

1. Take the plastic engine cover off and put bags of ice (5-20lbs) all over the bare cylinder head area and any where else they could be put to drop the temps around the valves to a low enough temp to accurately test the intake valves.

2. Same as above with dry ice instead.

3. Find a really big freezer that the car could be put into:lol:

Anyone think any of these could work?
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OEM fuel mapping, AFR/Knock learning

July 7, 2014, 4:36 pm
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I'm curious if the AFR's and fuel trimming is a common "problem" on our ECU/OEM fuel mapping. Trying to see if anyone else has experienced this. Usually modern ECU's (SAAB being a forefront runner) have AFR Learning (AFR Learning A,B,C,D), knock even learning, etc as the engine learns of knocking during certain RPM's , loads, and so on.

What I'm finding is that when I'm at WOT in 4th, overtaking someone, the car feels like the fuel mapping has flat spots. I know turbos don't have a linear "feel", and that is not what I'm inquiring about. Is this the car's ecu trimming down timing/fuel mapping as a result of a previous learned knock event? That is how I'm seeing it, but not sure. I've owned plenty of Turbo cars and what I'm experiencing is the "tune" not having correct fuel/timing (I've also done a wee bit of open source tuning on my subies), leading me to believe this could possibly be learned knock events, thus, like said earlier, reduced timing/fuel mapping at certain loads/RPM's.

Also wondering if anyone else has had flat spot experiences during the higher rpms.

I haven't fully reset the ecu yet. I will be doing a stage 1 tune later in the year, but still learning how the ECU works.
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For Sale: 9-7x Winter Tires 255/55R18

July 7, 2014, 4:46 pm
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Name: MC

Location - additional details: CT and ME

Means of contact: m.ciccarelli@comcast.net
Price: $400

Mileage (miles/kms): N/A

Description: 4- Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice WRT (255/55R18) used last season 4000 miles. They were great in the snow and ice! Available for local pickup only.
Pictures (embedded pics or links to external albums are mandatory):
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